🇳🇵 🇳🇵 🇳🇵
It was dream for many years to embark on this epic trek, probably the most comprehensive trek of Khumbhu Region.
Day 1: Kolkata to Kathmandu:
My day started with an early morning flight from Kolkata to Kathmandu. There is just one Nepali airline , Budha Air which operate a direct flight on every alternate day. It was just under 2 hrs and I was well in time to check-in my hotel and then found a nice restrurant in Thame area for a traditional Nepali Lunch. It was interesting to see Indian UPI system is adopted in most of the shops and restrurants in Nepal . It’s quite convinient for me as well as I have one UPI app installed .
Day 2: Kathmandu to Salleri:
The overland journey from Kathmandu to Salleri covers about 267 to 270 kilometers east and takes roughly 10 to 12 hours. This was supposed to be a long private Jeep ride from Kathmandu to Thamdanda at very early morning at 4 AM . However conditions of road was very bad . There were sections where road is completely wiped off. Also we had to stop for few hours because they forgot to load with the supply for base camp. The agency was actually using my Jeep to send their supply and few guides to base camp. Nevertheless we reached Salleri after dark . There was no possibility of travelling further as road was closed due to a landslide . So . I had to stay at Salleri for the night.
Day 3: Salleri to Surke (Thamdanda) and trek to Phakding (2800M):
Since I lost a day already , it was decided to drive further down Surke instead of trekking from Thamdanda . This saved few hours of walk on very muddy track . The journey from Salleri to Surke is a rugged 55 km off-road mountain route in Nepal’s Solukhumbu district. Passes through terraced farmlands, suspension bridges over roaring rivers, and deep forests with occasional distant views of peaks like Numbur Himal. We reached Surke around 3 PM and then trekked to Phakding .
The trek from Surke (2,290m) to Phakding (2,610m) is a moderate, scenic 3 to 5-hour hike covering about 8 to 9 kilometers. This path serves as a popular overland alternative for the Everest Base Camp Trek, taking trekkeres past quiet Sherpa villages, suspension bridges, and lush valley terrain before merging with the main trail.
I began my walk from the quiet village situated just beneath Lukla, ascending gently alongside local farms and stream beds.Climb for about 1.5 hours to reach Chaurikharka and connect with the main Everest trail at Chheplung. Walk along the lower slopes above the raging Dudh Koshi river system, crossing small suspension bridges and passing ancient Buddhist chortens and mani walls. Finally finished the day with an easy descent into the vibrant riverside village of Phakding, featuring comfortable teahouses to rest before heading toward Namche Bazaar.
I reached Phakding well after sun set , in-fact last 1 hour I had to trek in total dark with head torch .
Day 4: Phakding to Namche Bazaar(3440M):
I left Phakding early and crossed the suspension bridges over the roaring Dudh Koshi river. There are 6 suspension bridges and path follows and cris-crosses Dudh-Khoshi river. There are several river bridges leaving Phakding and near villages like Benkar, Monjo, and Jorsalle. The final and highest crossing is the famous Hillary Suspension Bridge at Larja Dovan, hanging roughly 125 to 135 meters high just before the steep final climb to Namche Bazaar. Watching prayer flags flutter in the cool morning wind as the trail slowly climbed toward the stunning Sagarmatha National Park entrance at Monjo. Stopping at Monjo to register our permits before entering the protected Himalayan parkland. Battling the steep, dusty switchbacks up the massive hill where I first caught a breathtaking glimpse of Mount Everest standing proud above the clouds. I rounded the final ridge, and suddenly the steep trail gives way to a vast, horseshoe-shaped bowl carved directly into the mountain face. Colorful Sherpa houses with bright blue and red tin roofs stack tier upon tier against the slope, looking impossibly suspended above the valley. Vibrant gear shops, lively local lodges, and smiling children crowd the stone paths, welcomed me to the beating heart of the Himalayas
Day 5: Namche Bazaar(3440M): This was the first acclamatization day in Namche Bazar . Typically everyone in EBC route goes for Hotel Everest view for acclamatization hike . I decided to explore different route for acclamatization . The acclimatization loop from Namche Bazaar (3,440m) climbs steeply uphill past the Syangboche airstrip to the twin traditional villages of Khunde(3840m) and Khumjung(3790m), moves onward to the luxury Hotel Everest View (3,880m) for panoramic mountain vistas, and loops back down to Namche. I also wanted to hike Khunde Peak / Hillary point from Khunde Hospital but it was bit difficult to do in 1 day and weather prediction was not great in early afternoon . Khumjung is a larger settlement with green-roofed houses and the Khumjung Monastery, which famously safeguards a relic reported to be a Yeti scalp. I also had my lunch in Khumjung. There was excellent mountain view Mt Everest , Lhotse , Ama Dablam, Nuptse and also Thamserku (6,623m) & Kangtega (6,782m),Khumbila (5,761m) – This jagged rocky peak stands directly behind Khunde and Khumjung. It is the sacred protector mountain of the Sherpa people and remains strictly unclimbed and Kongde Ri (6,187m)
When I reached Everest View Hotel , Sky turned really cloudy and did not see anything from there . Though apprently view from the terrace is really great
Day 6: Namche Bazaar to Thame(3800M)
The journey from Namche Bazaar to Thame is a scenic 4.8 to 6-mile (approx. 9.5 km) trek heading west along the Bhote Koshi River valley. It climbs from Namche at 3,440 meters to Thame at 3,800 meters over 3 to 5 hours, offering a quieter, culturally rich alternative to the main Everest trails. The trail passes through smaller, tranquil settlements like Phurte and Samde. Thame village is the historic childhood home of Tenzing Norgay (who first summited Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary).
Day 7: Thame to Lungden (4500M)
In the morning I visited Thame Monastery (Dechen Chekhorling) , an ancient Tibetan Buddhist monastery perched at 3,970 meters above the village of Thame in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Built in 1667, it is one of the oldest monasteries in the area and hosts the annual Mani Rimdu festival. It is perched on a mountain cliff roughly 200 meters above Thame village.
The trek from Thame to Lungden in Nepal is a scenic 5 to 7-hour alpine walk covering roughly 10.5 kilometers (6.5 miles). It ascends along the Bhote Koshi river valley from Thame at 3,820 meters (12,500 feet) to Lungden at around 4,380 to 4,700 meters (14,370 to 15,400 feet), serving as a key acclimatization stage before crossing the Renjo La Pass. The path follows the Bhote Koshi river upstream, tracing ancient Himalayan trade routes once used to ferry salt and grain across the Nangpa La pass into Tibet. The walk begins with a gentle path meandering through yak pastures and stone chortens, later turning steeper as it climbs over rocky moraines and rough terrain. I passed through the tiny traditional settlement of Marlung (Marulung), which features simple stone houses and basic local tea accommodations. The trail offers towering views of high Himalayan peaks, including Cho Oyu, Teng Ragi Tau, and Langmuche Ri.
Day 8: Lungden (4500M)
Today I did an acclimatization walk from Lungden (approx. 4,380 meters / 14,370 feet) up the upper Bhote Koshi valley (toward the Tibetan border direction ) , a steady, high-altitude climb designed to help my body adjust to thin air before crossing the demanding Renjo La Pass.
I left Lungden village, leaving the small cluster of stone teahouses behind. An upward, gravelly, and rocky path following the upper contours of the Bhote Koshi river basin. Gradual to steep incline, moving past 4,400 meters up towards ridge viewpoints or high pasture areas approaching 4,700+ meters. Sweeping, wide-angle prospects looking back down the remote, glacier-carved Bhote Koshi valley. Imposing views of rugged Himalayan giants and rocky ridgelines bordering the Tibetan plateau. A much quieter, untouched alpine atmosphere compared to the main Everest Base Camp trail, dominated by high-altitude scrub and sheer rock
