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Day – 9 Lungden(4380M) to Gokyo(4750M) Via Renjo La Pass(5360M) :
12.95 Km 10Hr 44Min
This is the first big pass to tackle . I started before dawn in sub-zero temperatures. The trail exits the quiet village of Lungden and follows the remote Bhote Koshi Valley northward. The initial terrain covers sandy alpine meadows and yak pastures before turning into a rockier, barren moraine landscape. I walked past a couple of isolated, frozen meltwater lakes, including Angladumba Tsho and Relama Tsho. The final approach to the ridge line is a steady, steep grind over loose gravel, scree, and occasional stone steps. Reaching the prayer-flag-draped col reveals one of the most celebrated panoramic viewpoints in the entire Everest region. Looking east, it was an unobstructed, sweeping view of four 8,000-metre peaks: Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu. Directly below you sit the vibrant, turquoise Gokyo Lakes and the massive Ngozumpa Glacier.
The drop toward Gokyo starts abruptly on a steep, winding staircase carved directly into the rock face. It requires careful foot placement, as these stone steps can be slick with morning ice or snow patches. Once past the steepest crags, the trail levels out into a gentler incline that skirts the sandy western shore of Dudh Pokhari (the third Gokyo lake) before pulling into Gokyo village. It took about 6.5 hrs to reach to the top and another 4 hrs to reach to my hotel in Gokyo.
Day – 10 Gokyo Lakes (5150M):
14.29Km 7hr 26Min
The day hike from Gokyo village to the Upper Gokyo Lakes (Lakes 4, 5, and 6) and Cho Oyu Base Camp is a spectacular, wild, and remote out-and-back journey. Unlike the main trekking paths, this route follows the northern valley floor parallel to the massive Ngozumpa Glacier, leading you deep into the high-altitude wilderness right up to the border of Tibet.Because most trekkers turn around at Lake 3 (Gokyo village) or Gokyo Ri, this upper valley offers incredible solitude, dramatic glacial walls, and unparalleled, up-close views of Mount Cho Oyu.
Gokyo to Lake 4 (Thonak Tsho)Distance: ~3 km : Leaving Gokyo village, you head strictly north, keeping the lateral moraine of the Ngozumpa Glacier tightly to your right. The path is relatively flat but crosses sandy, stony flats and low grassy hummocks.The Sight: You will easily reach Lake 4 (Thonak Tsho) sitting at 4,870 metres. It is the deepest lake in the system, flanked by steep, dark rock walls that contrast beautifully against its deep green water.
Phase 2: Lake 4 to Lake 5 (Ngozumpa Tsho) and Scoundrel’s ViewpointDistance: ~4 km : The trail narrows and becomes more rugged as you climb over loose rocky moraine. You will pass a distinctive ridge widely known as Scoundrel’s Viewpoint.The Sight: Lake 5 (Ngozumpa Tsho) sits at 4,990 metres. From the ridge above Lake 5, you get arguably the best panoramic view in the entire Khumbu. You can look down directly over the debris-strewn chaos of the Ngozumpa Glacier (Nepal’s longest glacier) and view the immense south face of Cho Oyu towering directly in front of you.
Phase 3: Lake 5 to Lake 6 (Gyazumpa Tsho) & Cho Oyu Base CampDistance: ~3 km : The trail from Lake 5 onwards is often indistinct, requiring you to follow stone cairns across high-altitude alpine desert, scree slopes, and patches of ice or snow.The Destination: Lake 6 (Gyazumpa Tsho) sits at roughly 5,150 metres. It is a stark, wild, and icy pool often littered with small icebergs. The area surrounding and just beyond Lake 6 serves as the Cho Oyu First Base Camp (used primarily by mountaineering expeditions approaching from the Nepalese side). Standing here puts you in a massive, silent mountain amphitheatre surrounded by towering walls of rock and ice.
Phase 4: The Return to GokyoTime: 3 to 3.5 hoursThe Trail: Because this is a strict dead-end valley terminating near the Tibetan border, you will turn around and retrace your exact steps southward. The return journey is entirely downhill, but navigating the loose rocks on fatigued legs requires focus.
Day – 11 Gokyo Ri (5357M) and Crossing Ngozumpa glacier to Dragnag (4700M):
Phase 1 Gokyo Ri – 4.80Km 5Hr 14Min
This day was was broken in 2 parts. First part in the morning was climbing Gokyo Ri. This is steep 4km round trip from Gokyo village. The trail begins immediately behind the village. It is steep, loose gravel and dirt right from the first step. There are no flat warm-ups here. The thin air at 4,800+ meters means every step requires heavy breathing. I had to use “pole, pole” (slowly, slowly) Nepali mantra. I took short breaks to catch your breath and looked back at the milky-blue Gokyo lakes glowing in the twilight. After about 1.5 hour of climbing, the path hits the main ridge. It zigzags up a series of rocky switchbacks. The wind picks up here, so keep your windbreaker and gloves handy. The last 20 minutes involves scrambling over large boulders near the summit ridge. It was easy to follow the prayer flags fluttering in the wind. It took overall 3hr 15min for me to reach to top.
At top I stood at 5,357 meters on a massive pile of rocks topped with colorful prayer flags. From top look east to see Everest (8,848m), Lhotse (8,516m), and Makalu (8,485m). Look north to see Cho Oyu (8,188m) glistening in the morning sun. Directly below lies the Ngozumpa Glacier—the largest glacier in the Himalayas—looking like a massive river of black and grey ice.
I spent about 20 mins at the top . Then it was slow climb back to the village which took about 1 hr 40 min.
Phase 2 : Dragnag 3.92 KM 2Hr 40Min
I came back to Gokyo village had my lunch and bit of rest . Next step is to trek from Gokyo to Dragnag (Thagnak) across the Ngozumpa Glacier. It is a short but intense 4-to-5-kilometre journey. It serves as the crucial transition day before tackling the high-altitude Cho La Pass. I exited Gokyo Village by walking along the eastern shore of the third Gokyo Lake (Dudh Pokhari). Within 15 minutes, I reached the massive lateral moraine wall of the Ngozumpa Glacier. First I gad to do Lateral Moraine Climb. Scrambled up the steep, sandy wall of the moraine. At the crest, when looked down onto the glacier itself, it does not look like a smooth, white ice sheet. It is a vast, chaotic landscape of grey dirt, loose rocks, and deep craters.
Next was navigating the Glacier Basin. I dropped down into the glacier bed. The trail here changes constantly. Glacial movement, melting ice, and rockfalls rewrite the path every season. I had to follow the stone cairns (piles of rocks) and sprayed paint markers carefully.
As I crossed, I often heard the eerie cracks of shifting ice, rocks sliding into meltwater lakes, and the deep groans of the largest glacier in the Himalayas. After sometime of navigating the boulder fields, I faced the steep dirt wall of the eastern moraine. Climb up this slippery slope to officially exit the glacier. Once out of the glacier basin, the trail flattens into a gentle, grassy valley. I walked another 30 to 45 minutes alongside a small stream until the tea houses of Dragnag come into view.
Day – 12 Dragnag (4700M) to Dzongla (4830M) Via Cho La Pass(5420M):
10.73KM 9Hr 3Min
I started my day in complete darkness around 5:00 AM. The trail begins with a gentle climb through a grassy, boulder-strewn valley. This 1-hour warm-up is the easiest part of the day. The path turns sharply upward into a steep, vertical wall of loose dirt, sand, and gravel (scree). For every two steps forward, you will slide one step back. Watch out for rockfalls from hikers above you. After the scree, you reach a chaotic field of massive rocks. You will need to use your hands to scramble up and over these boulders. A final, steep rocky gulley brings you to the edge of the pass’s hidden gem: the glacier.
I put my micro spikes on then walked directly across a massive, gently sloping sheet of solid, slippery blue ice. This section takes about 30 to 45 minutes and offers otherworldly views of the surrounding peaks. A short, steep rock climb at the end of the ice field brings you to the official Cho La Pass summit at 5,420 meters. I was greeted by a sea of colorful prayer flags and dramatic, close-up views of Ama Dablam, Cholatse, and Lobuche peaks. The initial descent down the Dzongla side is incredibly steep and exposed. I navigated narrow rock ledges, sometimes utilizing fixed cables for safety. Once past the vertical rock sections, the trail flattens out. I contoured around the base of Cholatse mountain on a scenic, winding path. The turquoise waters of Cholatse Lake guided me directly into the isolated settlement of Dzongla.
Day 13 Dzongla (4830M) to Lobuche (4940M):
6.7KM 3hr 4min
The trek from Dzongla to Lobuche is a short, scenic, and relatively gentle day of walking. After the grueling climb over the Cho La Pass, this section serves as a welcome recovery stretch while offering some of the most dramatic, up-close mountain views of the entire Everest region
I exited Dzongla on a wide, gently undulating trail that contours around the grassy base of Cholatse and Tawoche peaks. To my right, the dramatic, sheer north face of Ama Dablam dominates the horizon. I exited Dzongla on a wide, gently undulating trail that contours around the grassy base of Cholatse and Tawoche peaks. To my right, the dramatic, sheer north face of Ama Dablam dominates the horizon. About an hour into the hike, there is a spectacular bird’s-eye view of Cholatse Lake (sometimes called Tsho Rolpa), its deep turquoise water contrasting sharply with the dry, brown landscape. The trail drops down slightly into a wide, flat alpine valley bed. I crossed a few small, icy streams over wooden planks or stepping stones. The walking here is flat and easy, allowing me to find a comfortable breathing rhythm.The path ascends a short, steep ridge to join the main Everest Base Camp highway coming up from Periche and Thukla. There was an increase in foot traffic, yaks, and porters.I turned left to follow the main trail northward. The path runs parallel to the massive lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. The terrain becomes rougher, transitions into grey rock and gravel, and slopes gently upward. The trail flattens out as you enter the wind-swept, high-altitude outpost of Lobuche. The village sits tucked away in a narrow valley between the glacier wall and the towering ridge of Lobuche Peak.
Day 14 Lobuche (4940M) to Gorakshep (5164M) to EBC (5364M)
Phase 1 Lobuche to Gorakshep – 4.84 km 2hr 51m
The trail began with a relatively gentle, steady incline alongside the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. A short, steep, rocky climb brought me to a viewpoint overlooking the vast debris-covered glacier. The path transitioned into a rugged, unstable terrain of loose rocks, boulders, and steep ups and downs over glacial waves. There was dramatic, close-up views of Nuptse, Pumori, Lobuche West, and the distant snowy crest of Changtse (Tibet).
Phase 2 Gorakshep to EBC -4.5 KM 3hr 20Min
The trek from Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp (EBC) is the emotional and physical climax of the entire journey. This is the final stretch where trekkers walk alongside the historic Khumbu Icefall to stand at the foot of the world’s highest peak. The trail begins by crossing a flat, dried-up lake bed of grey dirt before climbing onto the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. For the next two hours, the trail weaves up, down, and across the crest of the moraine wall. The path is narrow and completely made of loose rock, scree, and boulders. To my right, you look directly down into the massive, debris-covered Khumbu Glacier. Though the elevation gain is only 200 meters, the air contains about 50% less oxygen than at sea level. Every minor uphill step feels like a massive effort.
About halfway through, I crossed a particularly rough, rocky section where the Changri Glacier meets the Khumbu Glacier. From here, one can see the white, jagged teeth of the Khumbu Icefall gleaming in the distance. As I came near the camp, the trail dropped off the high moraine wall and descends directly onto the active glacier bed. I walked past massive columns of ancient blue ice, dirt-covered mounds, and small glacial melt pools. Then it is easy to follow prayer flags to the famous spray-painted “Everest Base Camp” boulder. I made it. I was surrounded by a natural amphitheater of giants: Nuptse, Khumbutse, and the terrifyingly beautiful Khumbu Icefall.
Total area of Khumbhu icefall cleared up for tent set-up is not officially defined . However more that 1000 SQM area is at least used to set up ob 1000 tents during peak season . It is a very busy are with Yak’s and porters bringing supply for 500 climbers and over 1000 support stuff. My tent was almost at the back of that area. So it was another 30 /40 mins walk from base camp rock.
