Day 1
After many years I was in Kolkata during Durgapuja. Durjapuja is an amazing cultural celebration in Bengal which transcends religious and lingustic barriers and beacme a cultural identity of Bengal. We visited traditional Durga Puja celebrations held in the old, wealthy families’ houses (Bonedi Bari) of Kolkata, known for their historical significance and grandeur.
We covered many prominent pujas in Kolkata.
1. Sovabazar Rajbari /Maharaja Nabakrishna Dev’s Palace: The Sovabazar Rajbari Durga Puja is one of Kolkata’s oldest and most historic celebrations, started in 1757 by Raja Nabakrishna Deb to mark the victory after the Battle of Plassey. It is famous for its grand scale, rich traditions like using Daak-er Saaj (corkwork ornaments) and a unique immersion ceremony where idols are carried to the Hooghly River on boats.
2. Chatu Babu & Latu Babu Bari: The puja was initiated by Ramdulal Dey (Sarkar), one of Bengal’s first millionaires who made his fortune through trade. After his death, his sons, Ashutosh Nath (Chatu Babu) and Pramath Nath (Latu Babu), continued and expanded the celebrations. The magnificent red building is located on Beadon Street in North Kolkata and is accessible to visitors during the festival period. The idols are crafted in the traditional Ekchala style (all deities on a single frame) and adorned with Daaker Saaj (silver foil ornamentation). Unlike many other pujas, the goddesses Jaya and Bijaya accompany the Mother Goddess instead of Lakshmi and Saraswati.
4. Rani Rashmoni Bari : The Rani Rashmoni Bari Durga Puja is a renowned traditional “Bonedi Bari” (aristocratic family household) celebration held in the ancestral mansion of Rani Rashmoni’s family in Janbazar, Kolkata. The festival, which was originally started by her father-in-law, Babu Pritaram Marh (Das), in 1774, is famous for its rich history and specific customs. After Rani Rashmoni’s death in 1861, her daughters continued the tradition in their respective residences. Today, three separate Durga Pujas are celebrated by the descendants in different parts of the ancestral home. This puja holds historical importance as the place where the revered spiritual leader Sri Ramakrishna Paramahansa Deb once conducted worship. The setting was also notably recreated for the Satyajit Ray film ‘Debi’.
The Durga idol is unique, featuring a two-handed Abhaya Murti (fearless posture) instead of the typical ten-handed form, with skin the color of molten gold (“tapta kanchan”). On Mahasaptami, a special bathing ceremony for the Goddess is performed using water collected from a symbolic “seven oceans and thirteen rivers”.
5. Thanthania Dutta Bari’: The Durga Puja at Thanthania Dutta Bari is one of Kolkata’s famous traditional aristocratic household (Bonedi Bari) celebrations, well known for its unique ‘Hara-Gouri’ idol (Goddess Durga seated on the lap of Lord Shiva). The festival, which has a history of nearly two centuries, is located in the College Street area of Kolkata. ‘Hara-Gouri’ Idol: In contrast to the common Mahishasuramardini (demon-slaying) form, the idol here portrays Goddess Durga seated peacefully on Lord Shiva’s lap, symbolizing peace, harmony, and the divine unity of Shakti and Shiva. The family follows the Vaishnav (worship of Vishnu) way of worship, which means strictly vegetarian offerings and no animal sacrifice are observed during the main puja days. The deity’s idol does not carry any weapons in her hands; instead, she holds a single gold coin (mohur) which is briefly placed in her palm during the Sandhi Puja (a ritual at the intersection of the eighth and ninth lunar days). A picture of the ten-armed goddess is placed in the backdrop (chalchitra) for the sandhi puja.
6. Pathuriaghatar Rajbari: The Durga Puja at Pathuriaghata Rajbari (also known as the Khelat Ghosh Bari or Mansion) is a renowned traditional celebration in North Kolkata, celebrated for nearly 170 years with aristocratic grandeur. The mansion, built in the mid-19th century, is famous for its magnificent architecture, including a huge courtyard and an 80-foot long marble corridor. The puja was started in 1846 by Babu Khelat Chandra Ghosh, an influential zamindar (landlord) and patron of Indian classical music and arts. The idol is traditional, in a single frame (ekchala), and is decorated with splendid silver ornamentation (Daker Saaj). The lion accompanying the goddess is unique, appearing more like a horse (ghotok shingho), a style often seen in older traditional pujas.
7. Bhawanipur Mallick Bari: The puja is held at the Mallick family’s private residence in Bhowanipore, near Jadubabur Bazar. While the family’s Durga Puja tradition dates back to the 15th century, it has been held at the present Bhowanipore residence since 1925 when Radha Gobinda Mallick settled there. The puja follows strict Vaishnav rituals, meaning only vegetarian food is offered as bhog (offering) to the Goddess, and there are no animal sacrifices.
There was also a grand puja celebration at our apartment block in Mallica
Day 2
Gram Banglar Puja Parikrama
We explored the heritage of Bengal. We saw some century old ancient heritage temples with amazing artworks. In this village tour we covered Hooghly, Kalna & Guptipara. We enjoyed the fresh air of village & experience the essence of rich culture of ancient Bengal along with buffet breakfast & authentic bengali lunch menu .
Hanseswari Temple & terracotta and Temple of Ananta Basudev in Hooghly: The Hanseswari Temple complex in Bansberia, Hooghly, is known for two distinct and equally impressive temples: the uniquely designed Hanseswari Temple and the adjacent Ananta Basudeba Temple, which features exquisite terracotta artwork. The Ananta Basudeba Temple is an older structure within the complex, built in 1679 by Raja Rameshwar Datta. It is celebrated for its stunning terracotta art, which covers its walls and depicts a variety of stories and scenes. Built later, primarily in the early 19th century, the Hanseswari Temple was started by Raja Nrisingha Deb Roy and completed by his widow, Rani Sankari. Its architecture is highly unusual for a traditional Hindu temple. Its design is based on the Tantric concept of Satchakrabhed and the human body’s structure, with the five-story temple representing the five parts of the human body: Bajraksha, Ira, Chitrini, Pingala, and Sushumna.
Guptipara Sen Barir Puja :The puja was initiated by Shri Ram Sen’s successors around 1582, initially as Kali and Chandi Puja, which later evolved into the present-day Durga Puja. The Sen family is one of the oldest families celebrating Durga Puja in Bengal, with roots possibly linked to the era of Ballal Sen.
and other temples – Guptipara Senbari
Temples of Kalna : There are many beautiful temples . The most prominent temple complexes are situated within the Rajbari complex and include the famous 108 Shiva Temple, Krishnachandra Mandir, Pratapeshwar Mandir , Siddheshwari Kali Temple, Lalji Mandir. Most famous of them all is Nava Kailash (108 Shiva Temple) . Built on 1809, by Maharaja Teja Chandra Bahadhur. This complex features 108 small, white and black marble temples arranged in two concentric circles. The outer circle contains 74 temples, while the inner circle has 34. Due to the ingenious circular arrangement, all 108 shrines are visible from the complex’s center.
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Day 3
Immersion is one of the rituals of Durga Puja. Thousand of Durga Idol were immersed in Ganges and other river in Bengal. But very few people know that our neighbouring country Bangladesh will also celebrate Durga Puja every year. Taki, a small border town in 24 Pargaana, will witness this event every year. Ichamoti river which divides Bharat and Bangladesh, many of Durga idol will immerse in this river. From Taki you can see the opar Bangla Durga Bisarjan.
